Sewing a French Couture Jacket | Lessons from Chanel’s Life — Part 1

I’m sewing a classic French couture jacket inspired by Chanel’s most iconic designs. In this video, I share everything I’ve learned about couture sewing, from selecting fabrics and trims, to making a toile, cutting the jacket from tweed or boucle, and assembling it using renowned couture techniques. I learned from couture masters Claire Shaeffer and Susan Khalje, and use Vogue patterns V8804, V8891, and V9250 for this project. CHAPTERS 0:00 – Introduction Overview of the video and what to expect. 0:51 – Fabrics & Trims Reviewing materials and introducing the storyline. 9:29 – Drafting & Fitting Toile Pattern creation and fitting, plus childhood stories of Chanel and Maria. 12:30 – Couture Techniques Sewing the jacket, key techniques, quilting the lining, and pattern review. 23:27 – Building Support Adding structure with silk organza and continuing the story from age 18 to 1921. 27:39 – Part 2 Preview What’s coming next and why this story matters. You’ll see how I add gentle support with silk organza facings and interlining, quilt the lining to the fabric, create handmade buttonholes, apply trims, and hand-sew the lining — every step documented in detail. Alongside the sewing, I tell the story of two remarkable women: Coco Chanel and Maria Pavlovna, the Grand Duchess of Russia. These two met in Paris in the 1920s when Maria set up her embroidery atelier, Kitmir, supplying exclusive embroidery designs to the Chanel couture house. I reflect on Chanel’s life and the choices she made as a woman — some of which leave me conflicted — while I admire the clothes created by the skilled craftsmen in her house. This is Part 1 — stay tuned for Part 2, where we continue exploring couture techniques and the story of Chanel and Maria Pavlovna. Useful Links if you would like to study from Claire Shaeffer or Susan Khalje: https://courses.threadsmagazine.com/Couture-Sewing-Cardigan-Jacket-Claire-Shaeffer https://susankhalje.com/products/the-classic-french-jacket #CoutureSe